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Color me surprised.
No, I did not have drinks with Tom Brady. We’ll get to that later. The point is that I am now, improbably, in the third quarter of my life, to my surprise and the astonishment of everyone who knows me, a football fan.
I admit that at first watching football was just an opportunity to spend time with my son, who is one of my favorite people in the world despite the fact he is related to me. He’s an amazing young man and, to my parents, the Golden Grandchild, calling them of his own free will religiously every week, visiting with them over the phone for over an hour. I’m fairly certain this is after he’s had a few drinks, but that’s okay because my otherwise saintly mother has discovered the wonders of wine in her old age, so she and Sam are probably equally as buzzed. He’s a charming and convivial conversationalist with them and they, naturally, worship these calls. Mom and he will talk about everything under the sun but it’s mostly football with my father, my son spouting stats and scores like he’s trying to knock Tony Romo out of a job, that is, if he still has one. (See? Now I know things like who Tony Romo is.)
Out of the blue one day a few years ago, my kid asked me to join him at Revelry with all the other like-minded revelers to chug a few beers and watch The Game with him. I have become, but was not then, a beer drinker. This was not my goal. I don’t know if you’ve been to a sports bar recently but a good martini is not exactly in their repertoire. I don’t blame them for this, as I know making a good martini is a learned skill. I didn’t figure out how to make a good one until I was 50. And my first one was so bad it was legendary.
I was a bartender at, of all places, Sweet Daddy’s, a bar with a name so gay you will be shocked to find out it isn’t, in fact, a gay bar. Oh, I’m sorry; isn’t a gay lounge.
Sweet Daddy’s wasn’t a bar. It was a secluded destination for husbands to take their secretaries, single ladies, and longterm affairs without fear of the Mrs. ever stumbling upon the nearly invisible grotto. It seemed implausible this not-quite-seedy establishment was literally in the shadow of the gleaming Howard Johnson’s hotel, tucked within its restaurant.
The hotel was located just off the highway coming into San Antonio so it was always busy. Travelers would check in because the rates were cheaper than they were in the tourist trap-y downtown. And there were enough southerners who were formerly northerners intimately familiar with Howard Johnson’s 31 flavors of ice cream, all-you-can-eat fried clam Fridays, and its iconic architecture, virtually every lobby in the stubbornly retro color combo of orange and teal, looking like a parallelogram had been raped by a triangle. Speaking of, the specter of assault hung over the hotel ever since 50s and 60s pop singer Connie Francis had been raped at knifepoint at a Howard Johnson’s in Long Island. When Francis sued the chain for failure to “provide a safe and secure room,” the 1976 trial was a sensation, with Francis on the stand for four days. She eventually was awarded $2.6 million, the largest settlement for a rape case ever at the time, but she was never the same. In the 70s, rape still had the unspoken pallor “she might have been asking for it” over it, appallingly so. The shame caused the singer to recede from the public eye, embarrassed, terrified to be in public, and emotionally damaged from whole horrible experience.

Nothing so awful happened at this Ho Jo’s though. Nothing except the martinis.
To enter Sweet Daddy’s, you would either travel the sidewalk that ran from the check-in desk in the lobby toward the restaurant, choosing to enter the bar through the restaurant entrance or take the slight fork to the left where there was a small awning-covered, unmarked door guarded by two sentry shrubs. Mostly, the door was either too sketchy it was avoided or too dark it was ignored, so almost everyone just searched for the bar when they got into the restaurant.
Once inside, they would ask where the lounge was and they would be pointed toward the back of the restaurant and would wander, tentatively, through the large-windowed, brightly lit dining room to the last tables, a trio of duos, half banquette/half chair, the corner of which made of large windows and a restaurant wall. Against the wall was a grooved (not groovy), windowless door painted bordello red. The grooves were painted dull gold, as were the four hearts that ran vertically up the right side of the door. A small gold nameplate above the door, the kind that looked like it was picked up at some Ace hardware store, read SWEET DADDY’S.
It always took people a good ten seconds or so standing there for their eyes to adjust, coming from the bright clean citrus-colored restaurant, now plunged into near total darkness. When their eyes finally accustomed themselves to the dark, they would see the small bar on the right, booths lining the walls, and a softly glowing jukebox to the left inside of the entrance. Painted heartbreak red and named Sweet Daddy’s, you half-expected to spy a plumed chapeau, sitting in the corner shaking down Cinnamon and Diamond for the nightly take. But you’d be disappointed. Instead, you’d see a jittery kid looking like he should be the one having his ID checked, not the guy asking you for yours. I was only the bartender by default. I was barely 22.
Hui-Te was the real bartender. She was a mildly attractive 40-year old, but she exuded a tropical sensuality, dressing like a high class call girl which came across as exotic. To the regulars, she was this enigmatic maker of elixers and keeper of secrets, listening to their stories with devotion. She laughed easily and had an aura that maybe you could get her number but was ultimately always unattainable. The men were oblivious to it but I’d watch her sometimes, how she’d laugh at odd places during the conversation or at pauses the customer would generously leave, the silence queuing to her that a reaction was called for, which made me wonder how much she really understood.
She remained somewhat of a cipher to even the regulars, but to the hotel guests, she was an imperious mystery, her unpronounceable nametag throwing them off axis immediately. And if it didn’t, her heavy Vietnamese accent certainly did. You pronounced her name hyoo-tee but nobody ever got it right. Even the manager had it wrong, calling her “Hooty,” to which she would never correct him, just laugh at him. But none of us corrected Joe. He looked like a prized left tackle who’d just left the NFL about an hour ago because he was…too angry. His arms, with biceps stretching the limits of his brown short-sleeved shirts were bigger than my thighs. He had one gold front tooth, a high-pitched voice, a lisp like Mike Tyson, and 95% of the time he was a pussycat but that other 5 he was terrifying. I saw him ream out Shelly, one of the waitresses, one night and his hands were curling up into fists and the veins on his neck bulged, as visible as extension cords under cheap carpet. Shelly stood there and took it all and none of us could believe he unleashed such fury on her. Shelly! Of all people. Shelly looked like a Nebraska farm girl just in the city, all freckles, honeyed hair, and doe eyes. Shelly and I grew close and she would ultimately confide in me that she and Joe were actually lovers, which didn’t make any sense but perfect sense all at the same time. We all cowered when Joe came out of his office, but he was powerless around Hui-Te. She could get away with murder. For example: if the bar wasn’t busy enough to her liking, she’d just close the place down.
“I solly, dis iss lass caw, hee yaw check. I take kay yoo. Tank yoo bewy much,” she’d tell the sole couple in the lounge. (NOTE: I am not being racist. This is phonetically how she talked. It was adorable.)
“But it’s not even midnight,” they’d say.
“I know. Dat too bad. Chahge to yaw woom?”
I swear she almost gave them a geisha bow. But she never had to. They’d always gulp down the last of their drink, pay, and leave, dropping a tip so generous it was like they were paying her to like them. I’d counted my tips with her some nights after she closed the bar and Hui-Te made a fucking fortune, even nights when I counted less than ten people going inside the place, (although there could have been a hundred using the outside entrance I never knew about).Â
One day, about an hour into happy hour, Hui-Te failed to show up for work. I found this out when I went into the bar to order drinks for one of my tables and saw Joe behind the bar freaking the fuck out. Before I could tell him what I needed, he held up the soda gun.
“You know what these letters stand for?”
I looked down at the glowing buttons and took my best guess.
“C’s Coke, L is Sprite…upside down seven…, D diet, S soda, and W’s water?”
A few pulls on each trigger and a sip sampling proved I had it right, which meant I went on to the bonus round: being bartender. Hui-Te never called, never showed up again, and there behind the bar I stayed.
Luckily it was almost an entirely gin & tonic, bourbon & coke crowd. Or a call liquor on the rocks. Easy peasy. Occasionally some tourist would order a piña colada, which I made with the aid of the bartender’s bible, the Mr. Boston Delux Official Bartender’s Guide, with Howard Johnson’s vanilla ice cream. Besides having to constantly tell people that no, I didn’t know what happened to Hui-Te or where she went or how to get hold of her, I had this bartending gig down pat.
Until Martin came in. His name was a harbinger to the trouble I would soon be in.

Martin was a salesman who did not act like your typical sales guy. He wasn’t slick, he wasn’t smooth, he wasn’t the slightest bit skeevy. He was like a good ole boy who went to Washington to be a congressman and remained the man you voted for. He had a newscaster’s soothing timbre and while he didn’t smile very often, he was warm. But all this I would discover later, right now, he was scaring the shit out of me when, after giving him my standard Hui-Te schpiel, he told me what he wanted to drink.
“Just a martini. Dry. One olive.”
Thankfully, he went to the restroom after he ordered so I was able to consult Mr. Boston without looking like a total dolt. I followed the recipe exactly:
1 1/2 ounces gin
3/4 ounce dry vermouth
You martini drinkers just had a coronary reading that, but I had no idea it was wrong. Mr. Boston was supposedly a bible.
Well, Martin comes back from the bathroom and I’m wiping glassware with such dedication it may heat to liquidity and become blowable. But out of the corner of my eye, I see him take his first sip. He grimaces immediately and looks like he’s about to pull a spit take, but I, a rum and coke guy, just assume that’s a normal reaction to drinking straight alcohol. Or the toothpick stabbed him in the tongue. I wasn’t gonna ask any questions. Then he tries to get my attention. In a tone that sounds like he’s going to tell me my mother just passed away.
“Say, ah, Peaches?”
Now at this time, I’m still dating women. And I’m not the most macho guy in the room, but I’m no screaming queen either. But this guy had my Kinsey number down.
“Yes, Sir?” I pipsqueaked.
“This is your first martini isn’t it?”
Still clueless to where this conversation was going, I admitted this with pride.
“I can tell,” he said with a smile.
He then introduces himself to me as Martin and motions behind the bar.
“May I?”
I see no problem with this, so I proceed to watch him put ice in a shaker, liberally pour in gin and then, for all intents and purposes—although I want to say intensive purposes because they were—just hovers the bottle of vermouth over the shaker and maybe a teardrop fell out, I can’t be sure it was almost microscopic. He shakes vigorously, pours it into a glass, and drops one speared olive into it.
“That’s how you make a martini.”
And that’s how I learned to make a martini. Still, unlike Martin, I’m not going to go behind the scenes at a bar where my son is a regular. I’m sure I humiliate him quite enough.
So I look at Revelry’s cheekily named drink tent that’s crumpled and sad on the table and order something noxious that takes me til half-time to choke down. But I’m with my kid and having a blast.
By the end of the season, I am totally into this football shit. I’ve not only managed to remember certain players, I can usually determine why there’s laundry on the field (look at me go). The only thing I really have a conniption about is the countless times the quarterback throws the football straight into the turf. I come from a football-watching family so I’d seen more than my fair share of games, I just didn’t enjoy them all that much. But for the life of me, I could not grasp how when these guys’ receivers aren’t open and they’re about to be tackled so running’s not an option, they just basically spike the ball into the ground. In my day, that was called intentional grounding. Today, I think the quarterback would have to literally dig a hole with a shovel and bury the ball in the dirt before they’d get an intentional grounding call. It infuriates me. Still.
By the third year of this Sunday ritual, I even have my favorites. Number 1 being the Kansas City Chiefs’ Travis Kelce. (You all know who he is by now.) I like him, not because he’s a brilliant player—which he is—but because he was on a McDonald’s commercial, smiling and dancing, gleefully committing to what was basically a variation of the booty slap. Eventually I see him for the fantastic tight end he is (is not has. Although…) and I just love to watch him play. But then there’s Mahomes.

Patrick Mahomes is magic. And I grew up with Roger Staubach, Fran Tarkenton, and Johnny Unitas. When I was introduced to Patrick Mahomes when he was 25., averaged 9.5 yards per pass attempt with 32 touchdowns, 6 interceptions and 27 sacks on 433 dropbacks in third downs. He seems to anticipate his receivers’ changing dance steps. There’s a sideline clip of a still-stunned Kelce telling Mahomes, “I..I don’t…I don’t understand how you know what I’m doin’ before I’m doin’ it. I don’t…I don’t know!” Mahomes has thrown a ball out of Arrowhead Stadium! But he’s not just raw power, he’s a delicate touch, and a fucking laser at deep throws. In his first season as a starter, Mahomes pitched a perfect season. There have only been eight of those in 70 years. He can run the ball, slipping past tackles like water between fingers. He throws with both hands. He snagged the 2019 Best NFL Player ESPY Award and became the first Chiefs player to win MVP. Again, he was 25. I am practically a Patrick Mahomes/Chiefs stan.
I have not one, but two football yells. This goes from excited bellow to unabashed yell at the end:
Mahomes!
MahChiefs!!
MAHTEAM!!!
And then there’s the barrel-chested, deep-throated:
PATRIIIIIIIIIIIIICK!
Love this kid. I love his goofy voice. I love that he can’t take a good picture. I love the little gay sashay walk he has. I love that he is the dorkiest, sweetest kid off the field, but on he’s a calculating, focused futurist and when a teammate scores, his face transforms into furious adulation, a rage of victory.Â
My passion for Patrick is enormous. But before there was the light of Patrick Mahomes, there was the darkness of The Other. Before I fell in love, I was in hate. Total hate.
The New England Patriots’ Tom Brady.
Grrrr. I loathe that guy. I hate his fucked up hair, a coif that refuses every attempted flattering cut. I hate his banal “good looks.” He manages to look both stupid and arrogant at the same time. He kisses everybody on the lips—it’s creepy. I think Deflategate was real. I hate his coach who always looks like he can’t wait to get off the field because that’s two hours he hasn’t been beating the children. I hate that he’s married to Giselle Bündchen who I wouldn’t like either but she can fly a helicopter and you gotta give a girl props for being able to fly a chopper when this is the kind of woman who would never have to open a single door if she didn’t want to. He’s not sexy in the least—he’s boring. And I hate anyone who wins all the time. It’s not natural.
To make things interesting, my son loves Brady.
I’ll grant you, this is pretty gay:
“Hey, Sam, who is that?”
“He’s [player x] he’s a [position]. He [stats],” my son answers. He used to ask why, but he doesn’t anymore because he knows my response.
“He’s cute,” I’ll say.
You know what’s even gayer?
The way my super-straight son swoons all over Tom Brady. The highlight of his best friend’s wedding wasn’t the wedding. It was the fact that it was an hour away from Gilette Stadium, a place he visited and recalls with a tone approaching reverence. He doesn’t just have a New England Patriots #12 jersey, his dog has one. And I know she hates it. He did try to even the playing field by giving me a Chiefs’ jersey for Christmas, but I don’t wear it like a vestment like he does. One time I told him to take the shirt off it was getting on my nerves and he stripped it off only to reveal the second duplicate jersey he was wearing. Insane.
This hate affair was immediate, if only because I’d heard Brady’s name mentioned every time someone uttered anything about football. I didn’t know who the fuck he was but I was sick of him. When I got to know his particulars and see him constantly on camera during games, he disgusted me all the more. It doesn’t matter who the Pats are playing, that’s the opponent I’m rooting for.
And when Brady became a Buchaneer, both my son’s affection and my vitriol simply transferred to the new team. Bonus hate points: it was Florida, a state so loony even Bugs Bunny sawed it off the nation.
Covid came and, for a time, put the kibosh on our Sunday date, but as the NFL returned, so did we. And then, it happened. I was confused where the season was exactly because of the metamorphosing schedule, so when the Chiefs were playing the Bills, I didn’t realize this was the playoffs. When they won, that meant it was gonna be Brady vs. Mahomes.
But on February 7, 2021, The Patriots beat the Chiefs 27-20. Patrick Mahomes, Travis Kelsey, and I were heartbroken. The best I can say about the whole ordeal is that my son, ever the good sport, did not lord it over me.
But it’s been years since that game. And my animosity towards Tom Brady has since cooled. Mainly because (1) he’s quit football, (2) he’s a pretty good sports commentator now for Fox, and (3) he was in a Pizza Hut commercial where he said the last name of the company and then got immediately sacked. It is hilarious.
I don’t know what Tom Brady drinks, but if I ever run into him, I am going to put buy him a beer. But if he wants a martini, I’ll go behind the bar and mix him one right up myself.
It’s been 40+ years ago since Howard Johnson’s. And in all that time, I’ve learned how to make one helluva martini. One I think Tom would like. And one that might even make Hui-Te proud.Â
